RP Series High Vacuum Pump
























Checking Shipment Received


As soon as the pump received, it should be carefully inspected. This is for the purpose of discovering any shortage or damage that may have occurred in transit. In event of such shortage or damage, a written report should be made immediately to the transportation company. An itemized shipping list will always be found in each shipment.


Location of Pump


The Beach-Russ type RP Rotary Piston Vacuum Pump is precision-built and deserves the best attention possible. It should be placed on a firm, level foundation in an accessible, clean, illuminated place. Allow ample space on all sides for servicing. For most efficient operation, the pump should be located as close as possible to the working apparatus.


Storing Pump


If unit is to be stored for an extended period before installation, fill entire cylinder with oil to prevent atmospheric corrosion. All water-jacketed areas must be checked for complete drainage (drain plugs are located at bottom of each jacketed area). Intake and outlet connections should be sealed. If stored outdoors, protect unit against weather.




The foundation should be sufficiently heavy to afford permanent, rigid support for the pump. If the pump is not properly installed on a suitably prepared foundation or floor, the pulsation which is ordinarily negligible may be magnified and multiplied. It is therefore advisable to observe the following instructions carefully:


Proper Placement


When locating pumps on any floor of a building or anywhere except on ground level concrete foundations, care must be taken that the pump straddles a floor beam. Better still, it should be located to distribute its load over the floor beams or located near a wall or over a post or column. (See Figure N-737)


Piping Connections


For efficient operation and a tight piping system, use tubing or a good grade of new pipe, properly threaded and cleaned. Make up pipe joints with shellac or litharge & glycerin mixed to the consistency of heavy cream. No red or white lead should be used on pipe joints.


CAUTION : 1) Remove shipping plugs from suction and discharge connections of pump. 2) Clean pipe thoroughly before connecting to the pump. Chips, burrs, scale or other foreign matter should never be left in the suction pipe line. Any foreign objects inside the pump can jam or score the parts, resulting in serious damage. Special caution should be used in this regard when welded or brazed pipe is used.


Flushing & Testing Valve


Install a valve close to the pump suction. The valve should be vacuum tight and of a type that produces practically no line friction (gate, ball or diaphragm valve)


Suction Line


Run suction piping in as short and direct a line as possible. Use long radius elbows to reduce pipe friction. Install unions close to all pump connections, so that the pump may be easily disconnected from system if necessary. Install either a manual or solenoid-operated vacuum break valve on the suction line to the pump. This valve will prevent the possibility of the pump rotating backward, or filling with oil on shutdown.


Never reduce pump suction piping unless pipe friction, pressure and flow rate calculations prove that pipe sizes can be reduced. When ultimate low pressure are desired, use full pipe size.


Exhaust Line


Discharge piping, if possible, should be piped to outside of the building, so that the oil vapors can be exhausted to the atmosphere. Models 135 to 1000 RP require outside exhausting. Smaller pumps operating at high vacuum, where slight traces of oil vapors are not objectionable, often need not be piped to the outside. Where exhaust vapors are objectionable, Beach-Russ mist filters can be used to eliminate these vapors.


In making up discharge pipe lines, piping on top of pump should extend vertically for at least 4 to 6 ft. Where large quantities of water vapor are exhausted, a trap or exhaust line must be installed to prevent condensate backflow into the pump.


Cooling Water Line


Models 15, 30 and 50 RP pumps are air-cooled. Water jackets can be supplied on these pumps in special cases. All larger sizes are water-cooled. The pump, water or air cooled should operate so that the non jacketed areas of cylinder are warm to hand. There are cases where a pump operating at vacuums of approximately 28” will normally operating higher temperatures.


Connect water supply to cooling water inlet which is tagged. Install a valve on inlet, not outlet side so that flow of water may be regulated. Install unions close to pump on inlet and outlet connections. Run discharge pipe from water outlet on pump to an open drain at a convenient location near the pump so that the temperature of cooling water can be easily determined at all times. Inlet water temperature could be anywhere from 600 to 800 F. outlet temperature of cooling water for normal operation should be approximately Delta T 200 F. rise.


CAUTION : Valves or fittings which will cause back pressure in water jackets are not permitted in the water discharge line. Unavoidable back pressure above 30 Lbs, should be checked with Beach-Russ Company.


Electric Solenoid Valve


Solenoid should be connected in parallel with motor terminals, never in series. The solenoid will operate properly on voltage 10% higher or lower than rated voltage. With this type of solenoid, the valve will open when the solenoid is energized and will close when it is de-energized. Before running the pump, remove one of the plug fittings from oil line. Energize solenoid coil, without starting pump. Check oil flow at the open fitting.


Testing & Servicing Solenoids


  1. To check the electrical system, energize the solenoid. A metallic “Click” is heard if the solenoid is operating. Absence of “Click” indicates loss of power. Look for a loose connection, open circuit or burnt coil.


  1. To check for a burnt coil, turn off power, remove cap nut, lift off the housing cap. Remove spring washer or retaining clip, upper flux plate and insulating washer. Replace coil if it is burnt out.


  1. To examine the internal parts, shut off the power and line pressure. Lift off the top assembly by removing the four top screws or unscrew top assembly. Depending on

type of solenoid , inspect valve seats, plunger or diaphragm for rupture. Also check that the two bleed holes are not clogged.


When ordering solenoids or solenoid parts be sure to give solenoid model number and voltage of the coil.


Belt Adjustment


Ideal tension is the lowest without belt slippage or flapping, required for operation under peak load conditions, since new v-belts have a tendency to stretch during initial run-in period. It is advisable to check tension after the first 36 hours of operation. Either too low or too high tension will adversely affect the life and operation of the belts.






Class “D” Pump


The class “D” type RP pump is used in the majority of normal applications. Units are supplied with a combination automatic lubricating system and oil separator. The separator collects the oil, carried over by the exhaust air, through a series of baffles and re-circulates it back to the pump. A vapor purge valve, on the back head of the pump, prevents vaporized moisture from condensing. A gauge glass indicates the oil level and a drain cock is provided to facilitate the

removal of old oil. (See Drawing)

Class “WS” Pump


Class “WS” type RP pumps are primarily designed to handle large quantities of condensable vapors and gas loads from wet system. These pumps are provided with special large oil separators.


The oil distributing pan drips the oil and water to the bottom of the separator. The water on the bottom of the separator will eventually flow through the water overflow pipe (standard equipment) or through an automatic water discharge trap (optional equipment). (See Drawing)


Class “WSV” Pump


Oil or water and oil emulsion is immediately discharge into the oil separator. Water can not accumulate on the valve while pump is in operation and while air is moving through the pump. Rapid vacuum recovery can be obtained to immediate sealing of the valve with oil, making it possible for high vacuum to be rapidly obtained. (See Drawing)



Class “VP” Pump


Class “VP” type RP pumps are specially designed to handle condensable and non-condensable vapors which are harmful to the lubricating oil.


The class “VP” pumps are designed so that the gases pumped through the unit have only minimum contact with the lubricating oil. The vapor purge valve keeps the condensable vapors in a gaseous form, which in turn acts as a vehicle in removing the non-condensable vapors.


Auxiliary equipment, such as automatic water traps, heaters and oil coolers can be supplied to meet special conditions.




Before Starting a New Pump


  1. Put oil into pump, oil fill until correct level is indicated on gauge.
  2. Check motor wiring for correct pump rotation.
  3. Open oil line valve. If electric solenoid is used this step is automatic. Check for proper voltage connection.
  4. Before turning power on, turn pump pulley by hand in direction indicated by arrow on pump (counter clockwise-facing pulley side). This will indicate if foreign matter is in the pump, thereby preventing serious damage to either pump or motor.


  1. Turn on cooling water valve (if no solenoid is on water line). Model 135 and larger are water-cooled. Smaller models are sometimes water-cooled in special cases.

Start pump with electric switch on motor circuit.


Note : It is important before starting a pump that has been in operation to check the amount and condition of the oil.


Note : On models 375 through 1000 – when starting pump it may be necessary first to open valve “A” (See drawing ) until pump gets up to speed and then close valve “A” tightly.


CAUTION : When pumps are not in use for a long time (especially Model 135 and larger) the following instructions should be followed before the pumps are turned over by power:


Pour a gallon or two of regular lubricating oil into the pump. We also recommend removing oil line plugs and pouring oil down into pump bearings.


Turn pump over as described above. This will lubricate any dry spots that may be in the pump and will prevent any scoring that might occur if the pump is started without taking these simple precautions.


Stopping of Pump


Caution : Before pump is shut down, close oil line valve. This procedure is not necessary if solenoids are used. If possible open pump to atmosphere for one minute before shutting down.


If pump will be out of service for a long time, fill entire pump cylinder with oil to prevent atmospheric corrosion. Be sure to remove this oil before starting the pump again.


If pumps are to be left idle in freezing weather, all pump water jackets must be drained of all water content. Drain plugs should be installed at lowest points of all jacketed areas. If units are shipped back to Beach-Russ for repair, drain all jackets.


Setting the Purge Valve Properly (Gas Ballast)


The “Vapor Purge” valve is shipped with the vacuum pump. The correct valve setting is different for each installation and operation, depending on the amount of moisture entering the pumps. The valve should be opened to a point where enough air is bled into the pump to prevent the heaviest vapor load from condensing. Open valve until no emulsification or change of color of the oil can be seen in the oil level gauge on the reservoir.


The Beach-Russ “Vapor Purge” Pump, operated with the “Vapor Purge” valve completely closed has the operational features of the standard Type “D” pump. If extremely high vacuum is desired, we suggest that after the bulk of the vapor load has been handled, the “Vapor Purge” valve be completely closed. If this is done we recommend periodically purifying the oil supply according to instruction given below.


Purifying the Oil Supply


At the end of the operating cycle, if the vapors have emulsified the oil, blank off the pump and completely open the “Vapor Purge” valve. Run for approximately 30 minutes to purify the oil supply. Repeat, if necessary.





CHANGING OIL : Drain and replace oil when it becomes contaminated or emulsified. Open drain on separator and/or valve box and drain oil. Then remove oil strainer located in main oil line where it leaves the oil reservoir. This strainer should be removed, inspected and cleaned when oil is changed. The strainer can be removed by removing the flat square cover plate identified by the words “OIL STRAINER CLEAN OFTEN” cast on its surface. After checking strainer, close drain valves and fill reservoir through oil-fill plug to level indicated in gauge glass.


Beach-Russ Vacuum pumps can run with any brand type Mineral oil having following specifications. (Consult Factory for special application)


ISO Grade


Viscosity @ 1000 F. SUS


API Gravity



Cleaning the Pump


On many operations, particularly in chemical and food plant work, vapors may enter the pump and gum up, clog or coat the interior surfaces. This may cause the pump to bind or clog the oil lines.


To properly clean the pump, the oil must be removed from the reservoir and a mixture of a solvent such as kerosene, benzene, acetone or alcohol with 25% oil poured into the pump suction while the pump is turned over by hand. After the pump appears to turn easily and the solvent is up to oil level in the reservoir, the power should be turned on and the pump run 2 or 3 minutes. After this, the solvent should be removed and flushed out with oil and a fresh charge of  oil put into the pump.













  1. Remove belt guard, loosen the motor frame nuts and remove the V-belts.
  2. Mark position of taper bushing on pump shaft (when reassembling, place taper bushing on set scribe line for proper alignment)
  3. Remove taper bushing cap screws and insert into bushing tapped holes.
  4. Screw cap screws in evenly until pulley (Sheave) is loosened from taper bushing and remove sheave and bushing.
  5. Before removing rotary seal be sure the oil line to seal is off.
  6. Remove two 3/8º Allen set screws (15A) on inner race of bearing (15)


  1. Remove gland screws and using the two tapped holes on gland, evenly remove gland (4C) with bearing from front head, remove gasket (4C(G)). Use shims under jack screws for further jacking off gland, If necessary.


  1. Remove gland, inspect face if damaged or uneven wear, lap gland surface. This surface and the outer face of the rotary seal prevents oil leakage.
  2. To remove rotary seal (4B) from rotary seal housing (This is a double ended seal) use two button hook type wires and hook in the rear end of rotary seal, pull evenly on both hooks to remove seal unit.


  1. Inspect rotary seal faces, if damaged replace with new seal.
  2. When replacing seal make sure shaft is clean and generously lubricate all parts of seal and shaft with pump lubricating oil before placing new seal assembly on shaft.
  3. Before securing the gland to front head (4) press gland against the rotary seal face two or three times to make sure the seal is not hung up on pump shaft. The rotary seal will push gland out from head upon releasing gland. If no further inspection of pump parts is necessary replace parts as taken off.


If inside of pump inspection is necessary do not replace parts and continue as follows:


Inspection of pump back head (5) & back shaft (2)


  1. Remove oil line piping on back head (5).
  2. Remove screws on back head cap (5B) remove cap and gasket (5B(G))
  3. Remove two 1-1/4º pipe plugs (5P) and two hidden ½º Allen socket head screws (5N) under pipe plugs.
  4. Remove back head screws and insert four screws in tapped holes on back head and jack head off cylinder (1) by evenly tightening jack screws. Use shims under screws for further jacking head off cylinder. Do not remove dowel pins.


  1. Inspect head bushing (5A) clean as needed (use solvent) inspect oil groove and oil hole

leading into bushing . inspect two secondary oil line holes in back head, blow out and clean. There are three lubrication holes in the back head (same construction on front head)


Note : If back head is frozen on shaft, apply heat to section of head that contains bushing. Use of acetylene torch will help to remove frozen head.


If bushing (5A) I.D. measures more than .007º larger than pump shaft diameter at any point in bushing , replace the head bushing.


Note : At this point an inspection of the internal parts can be made.


Inspection of pump internals


  1. Place a wooden V-block under back shaft.
  2. Replace pump pulley and bushing on front shaft.
  3. Push rotor against cylinder wall by exerting pressure on exposed rotor shaft. Rotate rotor by turning pump pulley and check for foreign matter in cylinder or gate.
  4. Check for internal wear by inserting a feeler gauge between one rocker seal (3A) and cylinder wall, rotate rotor 3600, check for clearance. If greater than .030” at any point , a new seal (3A) or a pair of rocker seals will be necessary. (A minimum of .005” is desired for proper clearance at the tightest point of 3600check)


Under cut-off plate (2D) check spring (2J) by removing screws (2L). replace spring, if necessary. The screws (2L) have a shoulder that should seat against rotor snugly when screw is tightened


(use locktite on screws) These special screws give the cut-off plate its automatic clearance from


the rotor. The rotor plate can be moved and spring action felt.

Note : Do not remove Rotor shafts from rotor.


Removal of pump internal parts


  1. Removing rocker seals (3A) place gate (3) in vertical position using three corner file on side of rocker seal, slide out top rocker seal. Turn rotor 1800slowly and remove second rocker seal from top.


  1. Place gate in horizontal position. Slide length of wood more than half way through cylinder to support rotor.
  2. Carefully slide rotor from cylinder. When rotor is half way out re-adjust support under rotor body and remove rotor.
  3. Slide gate out of rotor, this will allow the keys and springs (2E) and 2F) to be removed from their slots.
  4. Check parts for excessive wear, clean with solvent and wire brush. (Score marks in cylinder wall or on head faces, etc. need only be touched up with emery cloth to remove any projections.)


  1. Badly worn gate should be replaced.
  2. Check front head (4) it may not be necessary to remove head from cylinder. Clean and check as instructed on back head.
  3. Do not try to machine cylinder bore. This is a patented elliptical design. Contact factory if there is any anxiety about condition of cylinder.


Note : After removing pulley and gland smooth off any set screw marks or ridges to help prevent binding on removal of rotor from head.


Installing Internal parts


  1. Place key, spring (2E) and (2F) into rotor key and spring groove, hold parts with screw driver and slide gate into rotor slot trapping key and spring in groove.
  2. When gate is part way in slot place other rotor key and spring in second key and spring groove, hold as before and slide gate through rotor.
  3. Lubricate front shaft of rotor, place gate and rotor in horizontal position with wooden block in cylinder using sling around rotor. Place rotor into cylinder using front head for line up and bearing point.


  1. After placing rotor in head, put once rocker seal in gate. Set gate in vertical position and slide in second rocker seal at top of gate. If new rocker seals are needed, check for clearances through 3600. if rocker seal does not fit, draw file length of strip a few thousandths and emery clean. In many cases an old and new seal can be used without filing rocker seal.


  1. Before replacing back head (5) clean surfaces on cylinder face head and wipe dry. Mix a small portion of litharge and glycerin to the consistency of mustard, apply an even coat @


.003º thick on surface of cylinder face, press and smooth on a .005º paper gasket (5(G)) on cylinder holding gasket in place with four studs in cylinder tapped holes. (this gasket used only on back head joint) apply mixture on gasket surface and install head using dowel pins for proper alignment. Tighten bolts evenly all around until bolts are snugly in place.


Note : After ½ hour, turn pulley one revolution to insure the litharge inside the pump does not set and bind pump rotor. Do not run pump until the litharge joint hardens (@ 2 to 3 hours)


Inspection of exhaust valve


  1. Drain oil from valve box (6) through valve (6D)
  2. Remove bolts, valve box and gasket (6(G))
  3. Remove Nut and spring holder (7B)
  4. Check valve discs (7D) and spring (7C) check discs for pit holes or uneven wear, check spring for compression and cracking.
  5. Check seats of valve (7) for cracks, chipped surfaces of excessive wear. A clean, smooth raised surface for each disc is necessary. Lap or replace, check inside of valve and remove if necessary for further cleaning.


  1. Check studs (7G) for worn areas, the section where valve disc holes may hang up on if stud badly worn. If holes in disc are worn so that the disc holes do not center the disc on the raised surface of valve – replace discs.


  1. Before assembling and replacing valve body use new gasket (7(G)) and bolt valve to cylinder tightly.


Inspection of oil lubricating system


  1. Drain separator (8) through valve (8D) remove cap (10A) and gasket (10A(G))
  2. Pull out oil screen sleeve (10B) and screen (10C) remove spring (10D)
  3. Clean screen (10C) with solvent and replace if collapsed or torn.
  4. Replace parts as removed using new gasket.
  5. Remove solenoid cap, cover and coil from oil solenoid. Screw off core and plunger and check solenoid seat and disc. Install spring in core housing as removed.
  6. Clean seat and disc of foreign matter and replace parts as removed.


Note : When solenoid valve is functioning properly an internal click can be heard when solenoid is energized and top of solenoid becomes magnetized. (same information applies to other solenoid valves. On solenoid valve seat and disc can be checked by removing four cap screws on bonnet.


  1. Oil cooler (105) is water cooled. Water through copper tubing and oil around tube walls. This cooler has two zinc plugs that should be checked and replaced when used up. These plugs help prevent corrosion in copper tubing wall due to cooling waters.


Note : Solenoids on oil cooler can also be checked for proper functioning by feeling pipe lines leading to and from oil cooler. If there is no difference in temperature a flow problem exists.


Cleaning separator


The separator rarely has to be taken apart. However when changing oil, if there is an indication that there is a large amount of slug build up in separator, remove inspection plug (8E) to check and flush separator , if necessary.


Suction screen


  1. Suction screen (1D) should be checked yearly unless indication in the vacuum process shows that there is a possibility of build up of matter on screen. To clean, drop bottom flange (1C) and inspect screen.


  1. Check screen for corrosion and clean or replace.






Single Stage Oil Sealed Rotary Piston Vacuum Pumps



High Volumetric Efficiency

Þ Down to 1 Torr



High Final Vacuum



Þ 29.92” Hg. (0.02 Torr)


Low Power Consumption

Þ Through out the pumping range


Slow Operating Speed



Þ 200 to 290 RPM



Long Service Life



Þ 30 to 75 Years











Blank off















32 21 34

300 Lbs.

0.02 torr






32 24 36








38 30 36








53 34 47








53 37 47








71 40 63








71 44 63








75 52 70








93 60 80








93 64 88







Beach-Russ Vacuum pumps can run with any brand type Mineral oil having following specifications. (Consult Factory for special application)


ISO Grade


Viscosity @ 1000 F. SUS


API Gravity